Eco-living and Eco-loving

May 25, 2016

  Today as we are leaving Solheimar and headed to Vagnstaóir, I am able to reflect on our wonderful past three days here while sitting in the bus on this rainy day.

   We arrived at Solheimar on May 22 after a long drive (9am - 8pm) from the Western Fjords. It was not so bad though because I was enjoying a good book and we made several stops. One was a lunch break and two were bathroom breaks but the stop that really broke up the drive was a two hour stop at the Grábrókargígar crater off of road FS78. We were able to hike up the crater to stretch our legs. The view from the top also gave us an incredible view of our surroundings where we were able to view, identify, discuss and analyze the geologic processes of the surrounding area. 

   Arriving at our cottage in the Eco-village was lovely because we were welcomed by Thorleifur and his wife as well as the woman who owns the home "queen" kolla with homemade cauliflower soup. She is so wonderful. She has volunteered in this community for 23 years offering her cottage as a retreat for cancer patients. The kindness she displayed in words, actions and conversation moved me and gave me something to aspire to.

   The Eco-village itself is incredible. Without getting into all the details, Solheimar is a sustainable community that grew from taking in only children in 1930 to being a fully functioning community for both the abled and disabled alike. Everyone has a job and contributes whether it is by cooking, gardening, woodwork or candle making. The list goes on and on. There are 100 people in this community, 45 of which are disabled. The community is centered around meeting the needs of these 45 individuals and creating a community around them for which they belong. In the greater society, these disabled people would be treated differently. Here, these people are included and accepted for who they are. The work here is truly wonderful. Visiting the chapel here was also wonderful. God's hand in the lives of these people is so visible. By its 100th birthday, this community looks to grow to 150 people and cover many locations, providing mobility and more access to all who want to participate in the community. 

   Yesterday on the 24th, we spent our time exploring this amazing village and the surrounding area around us in the town Selfoss, with a surprisingly large amount of people, numbering 5,000. We ate lunch, explored book shops, found the grocery store and ate ice cream (no matter how cold it is outside ice cream is always great). Before returning to the community to cook some homemade pasta for dinner (don't worry I don't do the cooking), we stopped at Kerió crater. While the wind was whipping, it didn't blow the novelty of this crater away. Inside this crater was a small lake. We hadn't seen anything like this yet. What really fascinated me here was how my hydrogeology class from the previous semester came into play here. The level of the water rises between 7m and 14m in the crater. This is because it mimics and changes according to the level of the ground water table. So cool!

    The day before this, May 23rd, was a big day. We did so much! Our first of five stops was to Pingvellir. This was not only where the first parliament (Alpingi) of Iceland was held in 930 AD but also a rift and junction of two tectonic plates in the Mid Atlantic Ridge. I love how history and geology collide.   They allow people to scuba dive between the ridge. While I wasn't able to do that on this trip, it just means I'll have to come back someday. Our second stop was at Gullfoss waterfall. It was a beautiful cascading waterfall with crystal blue water that looks like it falls into a crevasse. Sadly, it was pouring rain. It was the cold, windy, rain that I expected Iceland to be like since we got here. (Thankfully that's only happened once). I was happy to retreat to the cafe and gift shop and wait out the rain before heading to our next stop, the geysers. This stop was so fun! We walked around and looked at several small geyser pools but the largest geyser erupts about every 5-10 minutes. There was so much anticipation watching it and when it finally erupted, I almost missed it cause I got so startled. But it was so much fun. I was reminded of my trip years ago to Yellow Stone National Park. After the geysers, we made a quick 15 minute stop at Faxi Waterfall. Here we were able to see a mechanism built to allow fish to travel upstream despite the blockage of this long waterfall. After such a long day, there was no other way I wanted to spend it than by going to a local hot springs pool. Talk about relaxing. From the hot water to the stones under my feet, it was so needed. (And heck, I feel like a local now cause the naked showers don't even phase me anymore.) We had dinner in a restaurant that was also so wonderful and a dance party on the bus back to the community to finish our day. This place and group of people could not get any better.

We're Half Way There

May 20th, 2016

    These past two days exploring the western fjords have been wonderful. Yesterday (5/19/16) we drove two hours out to Látrabjarg, the western most point of Europe (that's pretty cool to say). The cliffs here were beautiful and the clear blue ocean water only made the scene more incredible. What makes this place even more special, however, is the wildlife! There are about ten different species of birds inhabiting these rocky cliffs and up to a million birds living here in the warmer months. The most populated birds are the three species of "Black Bird," the Brunnich's guillemot, guillemot, and razor billed auk. They all look very similar but I'm sure we saw all three species. We also saw many fulmar, or seagull like birds. My favorite by far, however, were the puffins!! They are so cute with their little round bodies and beautiful with their bright orange beaks. They are unique to this area and are an iconic part of Iceland (I can now officially say I've been to Iceland since I've seen them). I could have watched them all day. Very different to the birds but just as cool were the grey seals lounging on the rocks off of the cliffs! They were massive! We had to use binoculars to see them because they were off the coast and the cliffs were so high. Not gonna lie I was a little nervous on the cliffs; they have unstable edges and it's a long way down.

   Today (5/20/16) we traveled two hours out to the Dynjandi Waterfall. On the way we stopped up in the snow topped mountains for a brief recap lecture of what we have learned so far on the trip. It was enjoyable to stand outside in the sun (we have been so lucky with weather) and I am impressed with how much I am learning and retaining out here in the field. The waterfall itself was huge! It's hard to tell its scale from a far but once you get close to it, it's sheer size is incredible. I was amazed at the intricate network of cascades that composed this waterfall. It was 99m high, 30m wide at the top, and 60m wide at the base. Earth creates some pretty cool things. 

   We are going to cook dinner at the hostel for another relaxing evening. It's been nice having time to recuperate, hang out with friends, catch up on work, and explore the town. Tomorrow is an exploration day of the area so I am excited to see what that holds (PSA: possible whale sightings tomorrow... Talk about some awesome wildlife out here in the western fjords.)

   I am so sad to realize that today is the halfway point in our adventure. I have already had so many incredible experiences that I will cherish for the rest of my life. At the same time I am so excited for what the rest of Iceland has to hold! I don't want this time to end!

5/21/16 whale update: While we did not find any whales on our hike today, we did find other amazing creatures! While walking along the fjord beneath cliffs and snow covered mountains and along golden beaches, we saw grey seals who were playing in the water, dophins  that followed us back into the harbor, and sea monsters. Yes sea monsters. I have never seen the remains of such a creepy and scary looking fish in my life. What I really want to know, however, is what ate those fish? 

    

I'm on Top of the World

May 18th, 2016

   While I write in my personal journal everyday here, I try to write a blog post every three days. That lands me on today. Today, however, was an 8 hour bus ride from Grundarfjörõur to Bildadular in the Western Fjords. While the drive across this incredible land was as breath taking as ever and I really enjoyed reading my book, yesterday was much more exciting so I'll talk about that. 

   Yesterday - May 17th, 2016

  We woke up around 9:30 this morning for breakfast before heading out. We were supposed to go hiking in the national park, however the roads were closed. No fear, being flexible an alternate plan was made. 

   We arrived at the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum around 11 am. Yes, your thinking this was a museum about the local Greenland shark. You're right. Except for the fact that it was about eating the Greenland shark. Boy was I in for a surprise. Ignoring the pungent fish smell, we toured the museum and learned all about the local shark fishing process and history. I was actually surprised to learn how different it was from my preconceived notions. The Sharks stopped being hunted several decades ago. Instead, this farm takes in Greenland sharks that have accidentally been caught as bycatch. The farm then, through a smelly fermenting and drying process, prepares the meat for consumption. The whole shark is used, not wasted. 

   After learning about the process, we got to try the shark meat. I tried it. To be honest it could have tasted worse, the idea of eating a shark however was just too unsettling. The taste stayed with me until lunch. 

    We also got to walk around the farm property and see where the shark meat is dried. The farm is in a prime location. It is surrounded by snow covered mountains in the back, the sea in the front, and a casual waterfall in the backyard. The animals on the farm were also precious. We got to feed the chickens and ducks and I'm in love with the baby sheep. 

   We left the shark museum and headed back to Grundarfjörõur for lunch. We then had a leisurely afternoon exploring the town, finding coffee shops and bookstores, and taking a much needed nap. 

   At 4:45 I was woken up quickly to discover we were leaving on a hike. I had no clue where we were going but I knew I didn't want to miss it. I threw on my jacket, grabbed my backpack and put my shoes on as I was already out the door. I can tell you that I am so so glad I did not miss this hike. We followed a trail up onto the mountain behind the hostel. I wandered aimlessly as I followed the orange markers and the rest of the group. The whole time I was walking, I was in awe of what was around me. I felt like I was in a scene of The Lord of the Rings. The path lead us over hills and across streams until we came to a series of waterfalls where the snow began on the mountain. I thought this was the end of our journey, however the orange markers went up the side of the hill next to the waterfall. Naturally, a group of us followed it. It just kept going up and up and up. We crossed icy snow patches and climbed on our hands and knees up this mountain. Before we knew it, we were standing on the top of the mountain overlooking the whole valley with the town in it. My breath was taken away (from the view and also quite literally from being so physically exhausted). It was truly one of the proudest and most rewarding moments of my life. I had never hiked or seen anything like that. I was truly on top of the world.

   By the time we made it back to the hostel it was 9:15. We had been hiking for 4 1/2 hours. I later found out that only to and back from the waterfall was 5 miles so who knows how far we actually went. I'm surprised my body could handle all of that and I  can walk today. It was so nice arriving back, however, because dinner was almost     ready. Some of the group had headed back early and we were welcomed by the aroma of chili. It was the perfect post hike dinner. The night itself was so wonderful. Everyone was sitting around the dining table with some good chili and great laughs. While the day itself wasn't heavily geology based and more relaxed, it was truly one of my favorites. I will never forget the simple memories I have with this incredible group of people.

Another on top of the world moment: standing on top of Langjökull glacier before descending into the ice cave (5/16/16)

Moving Day

May 15th, 2016 

   The past few days the group has been in Reykjavik. The 13th we toured the city, visiting ON (okra nátturunnar- a geothermal energy plant)the History Museum of Iceland, the Hallgrímskirkja church and city center. On the 14th we set out on the first of our geologic day excursions on the Reykjanes Peninsula, studying lakes and cliffs off of highway 42, Krjswík-Seltún geothermal mud pots and steam vents, the bridge between the North American and Eurasian continental plates, sea stacks and sea cliffs, and the iconic Blue Lagoon. The days were so full but I wouldn't have it any other way. Iceland has already won my heart. 

    Today, however, was moving day. We loaded all of our things and left Reykjavik for Grundarfjörõur, although the journey here was not direct. We first traveled to the Borgavrus Water Tower. We arrived around 11am and I can say that was the first time I felt really, really cold. The kind of cold that people think of when they talk about Iceland.   This stop gave us a higher view of the surrounding landscapes. We discussed and viewed rouch moutanes, meandering streams, tides, glacial movement and then looked at the rouch moutanes closer to view their mineral composition and look for any striations indicating glacial movement. 

   After this we traveled to the Eldborg Crater and wow this was breath taking. We hiked 2.5 km to the crater and then climbed almost vertically up the rocks to make a 2:20 pm summit. It was so nice being able to get out and hike, especially with a reward as amazing as this crater. This younger scoria cone was formed due to volcanic activity. The various eruptions lead to the accumulation of magma creating this crater. The visibility of the varying layers of rock was incredible. Not to mention the view from the top of this 60m tall crater was incredible. I could see everything from the surrounding mountains to other volcanic cones to the natural brush and farm lands (side note: the baby sheep on these farms absolutely melt my heart). 

    We made several other stops after this, including the Olkelduvatin Mineral Spring, where the water is so mineral and iron rich it has a bubbly taste to it, and Ströridin, the coast between Stapi and Hellnaur where sea stacks, column joints and waterfalls can be seen. The coast was a beautiful site. We also stopped at Dritvík-Djúpalónssander. I was so cold and so tired by this point I just wanted to stay in the bus, but I am so glad I didn't. This beach was unlike anything I had seen before (per usual on this trip). It rested between a-a lava flows and it's sand was black stones. The cliffs went into the sea and were intertwined with natural pools, a unique feature. There was also remains of a shipwreck from the early 1900s scattered about, adding a nice artistic touch. 

    I cannot finish talking about today without talking about the drive. It was stunning. The whole way through. In the morning we drove under the fjord in a tunnel. We drove through volcanic landscapes consisting of ah-ah flows and pahoehoe flows. We saw erosional features including terracing, columns and alluvial fans. When literally driving into the sun out of the cold clouds we had been stuck in all day, we saw our first glacier. My breath was taken away. We drove along the cliffs by the ocean through Olasfvík, possibly the cutest, quaintest, sea side town I have ever seen, just before arriving to Grundarfjörõur, which itself is just as precious. 

   While moving days are usually stressful, today has been the best moving day ever. I am so excited for the days ahead (tomorrow we visit the ice cave!). And heck, they will be even better since I can sleep in my own double bed. 

   P.S. Happy Birthday Eric!

A New Stamp in my Passport

May 12th, 2016

    At 7 am, after a 24 hour journey that included three flights and an 11 hour layover, seventeen students, two professors and a professor's daughter arrived in KEF airport in Iceland. 

    At 7:30 am, I had a new stamp in my passport and since then the excitement hasn't stopped.

    Stepping out of that airport I was struck by a sense of awe and could not stop smiling. Iceland was like a land I had never see before. Volcanic black rock beds covered in grass spread as far as the eye could see. In the distance mountains covered in snow reached past the clouds. I felt as though I was immediately in the scene of a movie or on another planet all together.

    Our host, Thorleifur, met us at the airport with the bus driver. We drove about 48 km along a beautiful road to Thorleifur's home. We could see the beautiful land and could catch glimpses of the ocean. At his home, he treated us to breakfast made of breads, cheeses, meats and jams along side coffee and tea. It was a delicious taste of our first traditional Icelandic breakfast. His home itself was lovely. As I have come to notice, all of the homes are small, cute and modern, making the area that much more beautiful. His home was no different, especially on the inside. It was decorated so chicly and I absolutely loved the art on his walls. His windows spanned the whole of the back wall, letting in so much natural light. 

    After breakfast and some rest, we all grabbed our swim suits and headed to the local geothermally heated pool, the Kópavogslaug hot pool. We walked along a path that followed the water. It was beautiful. I have never seen black sand before and it gave us another look at the scenery of Iceland. When we got to the pools, boy, that was an experience. Traditional Icelandic hygiene calls for a pre-swim shower. This is fine except this shower just so happens to be one large shower and we all have to be naked, butt naked. Talk about culture shock. I have never seen so many boobs in my life. I think the Icelanders were a bit annoyed with our hesitations but they have to understand the modesty the US culture presents compared to this. We embraced it however and the hot pools in the end, were really really nice. It was definitely a bonding experience to say the least. 

   We were at the hot pools from about 11:00 to 12:30, but pre and post swim, my life seems to briefly fall apart. Soap exploded in my suitcase, the jewel in my nose ring fell out, and my black and blue toe nail began to hang. I was so surprised with how I did not freak out. Usually these little things give me so much anxiety, however, here they barely made me sweat. I'd like to blame the good Icelandic vibes. 

   After the pools we checked into our hostel, Reykjavik City Hostel, around 2:00. I  had never stayed in a hostel before so I had my worries. The hostel, however, is nicer than many hotels I had stayed in. It's clean and modern and I am so impressed with the sustainability and go green initiatives I see here. 

   The rest of the afternoon was pretty relaxed. Around three we had a small late lunch at an Italian restaurant. Camille and I split some yummy gnocchi. Promptly after that I took a much needed nap until 6:30 (not that I hadn't already fallen asleep four times throughout the day). I was also able to connect to wifi in the hostel and contact my family which was nice.

   At 6:30 the group met back up in the lobby of the hostel and headed out to dinner. We took the local busses to an Icelandic EES Furman alum, Inga's, home. When we arrived there, Eurovision, a European nation singing competition, was on the tv. It was fun to watch for a bit and such a spectacle. On the table was a whole spread of traditional Icelandic food that Inga had made for us. There were traditional lamb hotdogs, cheese breads, meat breads, veggies, not so traditional watermelon, and various desserts including chocolate cake, pancakes, doughnuts, and candies. It was      all so delicious! I was definitely worried about what I would be eating before arriving here but all my worries have been put at ease. I couldn't bring myself to try the dried fish yet, however. It will happen by the end of the trip.  We all talked and talked after dinner. Inga spoke of Iceland culture and politics and her own life. She went to grad school at Columbia and is now working in waste management here at the Environmental agency in Iceland. It was cool to speak with her, learn about the Icelandic culture, and see where her degree took her. 

   We ended up leaving around 10 pm. No one realized how late it was because it was still light outside! I have never experienced anything like it. As we took the busses back the sun was only starting to set. I am sitting here writing at 11:30pm with light still outside. It's truly something to witness.

   As I am sitting here reflecting on my first day in this new place, I am still giddy. I am so exhausted but that doesn't seem to phase me. I am ready for tomorrow and all the adventures to come!